Dr Salomon, Ried Pfaffenberg Riesling 1 Ötw, Kremstal, Niederösterreich, Austria 2019

Few if any grape varieties can reflect the nuances of origin as Riesling can -- which makes Kremstal, with its distinctively complex geology and transitional climate, a fascinating zone in which to craft subtle, expressive wines from this variety. Pale gold in colour, with an alluring, almost perfumed aromatic style (look out for quince, violet and freesia), in the mouth this Riesling surprises with its intensity, as well as the way that it mingles orchard fruit notes with leaf and plant sap. There's something which evokes powdered stone on the aftertaste, too. It's dry but not bracingly so -- and supremely harmonious already. Elegant, civilised, refined.

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