Loire dry Chenin Blanc - Decanter Panel Tasting

CHENIN BLANC IS undoubtedly the Loire’s most fascinating and diverse grape variety, capable of making a remarkable range of styles from bone-dry through to lusciously sweet as well as still and sparkling.

Recent DNA analysis suggests that Chenin is an offspring of Jura’s Savagnin and so related to Sauvignon Blanc and Trousseau. The first historical reference to Chenin comes from the 9th century at Bouchemaine, the small town at the eastern end of Savennières. Much later, in 1496, some Chenin was planted at Château de Chenonceau in eastern Touraine.

Chenin Blanc is largely confined to Anjou-Saumur and Touraine with outposts in Coteaux du Loir, in particular Jasnières, as well as the Fiefs Vendéens close to the Atlantic Coast. There is now a little planted way south in the Upper Loire in the Roannaise and Forez, where leading producers are experimenting with a range of white grapes. These wines will appear as IGP.

As Chenin is a mid- to late-ripening variety, it is not well suited to the Pays Nantais with its increased chance of wet weather in late September and October. Chenin’s eastern limit is around Amboise – spring arrives 10 to 14 days later here than it does in Anjou due to the distance from the Atlantic, thus it is hard to get Chenin to ripen properly here. Instead Sauvignon Blanc is largely the chosen white variety in the Loire’s eastern part.

Apart from the schist and slate of Anjou, Loire Chenin does best planted on limestone – the bedrock from Saumur eastwards. Chenin from limestone tends to have slightly higher acidity than those from Anjou.

Oak and wine ageing

While there is a tradition in Vouvray and elsewhere in the Loire for fermenting and ageing wines in old wood, increasingly top Loire Chenin Blanc producers use newer wood, usually with a small proportion of new oak.

There is a tendency to use 400-, 500- and 600-litre barrels with a medium toast rather than 225- or 228-litre barriques, so as to lessen oak flavour. There are also limited experiments using amphorae and concrete eggs.

Sweet Loire Chenin can be almost immortal, especially in great vintages. Dry Loire Chenin can also age brilliantly, although the opportunities to taste these older wines are considerably less than their sweet counterparts as there is less of a tradition – apart from in Vouvray and Savennières – of ageing dry wines.

However, dry Vouvrays that are 40 years old or more are still certainly drinkable and enjoyable.

It is worth considering decanting Loire Chenin Blanc, especially from a recent vintage or if the wine appears closed. Also they should not be served too cold, otherwise their complexity will be masked.

Loire Chenin Blanc: know your vintages

2016

April frost, complicated year, good autumn means fine wines in tiny quantities. Too early to assess.

2015

Good vintage despite September rain. Rounder wines than ’14. Drink 2017-2035

2014

Very good vintage saved by hot September. Classic wines with high acidity. 2018-2050.

2013

Late, small vintage saved by hot summer. Lean wines that may be ageing quickly. 2017-2025

2012

April frost, small vintage, good wines with quite high acidity. 2017-2030

2011

Early vintage, rot a problem. Drink these before your 2008s and 2010s.

2010

Long, hot autumn. Classic, with higher acidity than ’09.

2009

Hot year, rich wines. Not as ageworthy as ’08 or ’10. 2017-2030.

2008

Saved by Indian summer. Precise, balanced and long lived.

Jim Budd is the DWWA Regional Chair for Loire, 2017-2040 writes the award-winning Jimsloire.blogspot.com

Loire Chenin Blanc: the facts

Also known as Pineau de Loire, but use of this name is dying out Chenin plantings in Loire 9,240ha (2014)

Chenin plantings in South Africa, by comparison 17,933ha (2014)

Dry white Loire appellations that can only use Chenin Montlouis, Chinon Blanc, Coteaux du Loir, Savennières, Touraine Amboise, Touarine Azay-le-Rideau, Jasnières (in Vouvray, 5% Arbois is permitted)

The Judges

Jim Budd, Chris Kissack, Ben Llewelyn

The scores

169 wines tasted

Exceptional: 0

Outstanding: 1

Highly Recommended: 48

Recommended: 65

Commended: 23

Fair: 21

Poor: 11

Faulty: 0

The results

There’s a Loire Chenin for everyone, said our panel, impressed with the diversity, quality and great value on offer from this regional tasting. Christelle Guibert reports

Wines

Yves Lambert Domaine de Saint Just, Les Perrières, Saumur, Loire, France 2015 Yves Lambert Domaine de Saint Just, Les Perrières, Saumur, Loire, France 2015

Yves Lambert Domaine de Saint Just, Les Perrières, Saumur, Loire, France 2015

93

Highly recommended

Waxy notes and tones of baked apple with the weight of youthful fruit. The finish is laden with grip and fine acidity that lasts for ever. This is a great wine which needs time in bottle to evolve.

Eric Nicolas Domaine de Belliviere, Calligramme, Jasnières, Loire, France 2014 Eric Nicolas Domaine de Belliviere, Calligramme, Jasnières, Loire, France 2014

Eric Nicolas Domaine de Belliviere, Calligramme, Jasnières, Loire, France 2014

93

Highly recommended

This nose has so much potential, the concentration is obvious, but not flashy in any way, so typical of Jasnières. Caramel oak on the palate gives over onto lavender to form a wine redolent of terroir and variety.

Eddy & Mileine Oosterlinck Domaine De Juchpie, Le Clos De Juchepie, Anjou, Loire, France 2014 Eddy & Mileine Oosterlinck Domaine De Juchpie, Le Clos De Juchepie, Anjou, Loire, France 2014

Eddy & Mileine Oosterlinck Domaine De Juchpie, Le Clos De Juchepie, Anjou, Loire, France 2014

93

Highly recommended

A fulsome example of Anjou, richly sewn with luscious honey and dried apricot fruit. It is a mouthful, not a refreshing wine but one that has merits in texture and length. The oxidative style is saved by 2014s racy acidity.

Domaine Saint Nicolas, Les Hauts des Clous, Fiefs Vendeens, Loire, France 2014 Domaine Saint Nicolas, Les Hauts des Clous, Fiefs Vendeens, Loire, France 2014

Domaine Saint Nicolas, Les Hauts des Clous, Fiefs Vendeens, Loire, France 2014

93

Highly recommended

A fairly mute nose but hinting at some spice and red apple fruit. The palate is all tension and acidity, fresh and bright and lightly honeyed. A creamy mid-palate melds with sappy acidity and finishes long.

Domaine Ogereau, L'Enthousiasme, Savennières, Loire, France 2014 Domaine Ogereau, L'Enthousiasme, Savennières, Loire, France 2014

Domaine Ogereau, L'Enthousiasme, Savennières, Loire, France 2014

93

Highly recommended

A wine that is neatly put together, composed of compact fruit and a mineral texture. A touch of that lanolin style comes through the floral notes; richly textured but at the same time attractively restrained, with a raw and pithy grip.

Domaine Du Closel, La Jalousie, Savennières, Loire, France 2014 Domaine Du Closel, La Jalousie, Savennières, Loire, France 2014

Domaine Du Closel, La Jalousie, Savennières, Loire, France 2014

93

Highly recommended

This is glistening with supple texture, dried fruit concentration, peony and lavender perfume, with an earthy undertow. There is peach stone, lychee and melon, within a firm grippy frame, bolstered by bright acidity.

Domaine Du Closel, Clos Du Papillon, Savennières, Loire, France 2014 Domaine Du Closel, Clos Du Papillon, Savennières, Loire, France 2014

Domaine Du Closel, Clos Du Papillon, Savennières, Loire, France 2014

93

Highly recommended

There is lightly polished fruit that is sandy and lightly desiccated, with a touch of matchstick reduction. It is richly textured with racy undertones and a delightful balance and harmony.

Couly-Dutheil, Les Chanteaux, Chinon, Loire, France 2015 Couly-Dutheil, Les Chanteaux, Chinon, Loire, France 2015

Couly-Dutheil, Les Chanteaux, Chinon, Loire, France 2015

93

Highly recommended

Enticing aromas of conference pear, chalk and minerals here. The flavours show the same confidence with a touch of ginger spice and honey in a supple, energetic style with stony substance. An engaging wine full of charm and seductive balance.

Chanson Ludovic, Les Cabotines, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Loire, France 2015 Chanson Ludovic, Les Cabotines, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Loire, France 2015

Chanson Ludovic, Les Cabotines, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Loire, France 2015

93

Highly recommended

Light notes of lavender, honey suckle and apricots unfold onto an intense palate in a pretty and perfumed style with baked apple and biscuit notes. There is a confident Chenin pith and a breezy interesting finish.

Château De Targé,  Les Fresnettes, Saumur, Loire, France 2015 Château De Targé,  Les Fresnettes, Saumur, Loire, France 2015

Château De Targé, Les Fresnettes, Saumur, Loire, France 2015

94

Highly recommended

A really fascinating nose of lime leaf, polished citrus fruit and white peach that has great elegance infused with greengage and wild flower. There is plenty of alcohol here but with impressive, pithy substance which is setup very well for the cellar.

Château De Passavant, Jarret De Montchenin, Anjou, Loire, France 2014 Château De Passavant, Jarret De Montchenin, Anjou, Loire, France 2014

Château De Passavant, Jarret De Montchenin, Anjou, Loire, France 2014

95

Outstanding

There’s a lovely nature to this wine; a well-defined nose followed by acid freshness and fruit concentration. It finishes in a classy style and has all the hallmarks of a great Anjou wine. An open and very attractive wine.