Tokaj, Hungary

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My perfect day in Tokaj

Start the day with an after-breakfast stroll around the serene Terézia Garden of the Gróf Degenfeld Castle Hotel...

Tokaj scenery

Morning

Start the day with an after-breakfast stroll around the serene Terézia Garden of the Gróf Degenfeld Castle Hotel. If you’ve arranged this ahead, you can then walk behind the hotel to the Degenfeld winery (grofdegenfeld.com) for a cellar tour and tasting. Afterwards, enjoy a 15-minute walk through the vineyards to the 18th-century chapel perched on top of the Te ́rezia hill for stunning views around Tarcal and the region.

Lunch

One of the region’s most exciting kitchens, Gusteau, is 7km away in Mád. Delve into Hungarian dishes with a twist – such as duck consommé with ginger, or grilled goat sausage – and taste an array of local wines. For a liquid dessert, visit iconic winemaker István Szepsy whose winery is just a few minutes away to taste his incredible dry whites, sweet szamorodni and aszú 6 puttonyos wines. An appointment is necessary (info@szepsy.hu)

Afternoon

Bring wine and glasses or even a picnic to Táncsics utca (street) in Mád. Directly behind the large church, walk up the wide, paved pathway that leads to the vineyards and a massive kilometre-long mound of large stones gathered by hand over centuries from the surrounding land so vineyards could be planted. From the top of the pile (there are steps) are spectacular views of Mád and the Pannonian plain. On the other side is Szepsy’s Urágya vineyard with 50-year-old Furmint vines. Nearby is a picnic table under a huge cherry tree.

Evening and overnight

Head out to Encs, 25km from Mád, for dinner at the hip Anyukám Mondta (‘My Mother Said’). Clever recipes can be matched with wines from an extensive list of Tokaji from renowned (Zoltán Demeter, Oremus, Patricius) and up-and-coming (Attila Homonna, Gábor Orosz) producers. The Oroszlános Hotel in Tallyá is 20km away.

Translated by Sylvia Wu / 吴嘉溦

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