Gandarada, Dão, Portugal 2019

There’s sensational value to be had in this wine for fans of Dao -- though those who aren’t yet familiar with this granite-soiled zone of Northern Portugal should know that its pleasures are as much stern as playful. It’s dark black-purple in colour, with scents in which the sweet plummy freshness of youth meets something a little earthier and more brooding. The flavours, too, are neatly poised between sweet youth, searching acidity and intrinsic depth and extract, though hardness is deftly avoided here by wealth of fruit. The ensemble is hugely characterful, tight-sewn and deep; it’s a wine for food and for winter’s nights; and it would age very well for a few more years: true wine-lover’s wine.

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