Birgit Eichinger, Ried Kammerner Lamm 1ötw Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Niederösterreich, Austria 2020

Sommeliers have led the charge in popularising wines made from Austria's distinctive Gruner Veltliner grape variety around the world -- since they were the first to seize on its remarkable aptitude for food partnerships, long apparent to Austrians. This light gold wine smells as comforting as fresh bread or newly washed linen; there's plump, subdued orchard fruits, too, as well as a hint of soft vanilla and white-pepper spice. In the mouth it’s both rich yet vivid, generous on the tongue yet quick and nimble too, and you'll see the same modulation in a flavour that begins sweet-fruitedly and ends with a flourish of ripe acidity and a grind or two of subtle spice. This carefully vinified Kamptal classic would partner almost anything save red meat.

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