Chessa, Cagnulari, Isola dei Nuraghi, Sardinia, Italy 2020

The varietal overlap between Sardinia and Spain is a fascinating story in its own right, and too complicated a matter to discuss here. What we have got the space to say, though, is that this Cagnulari (the same variety as Spain's Graciano) manages to achieve an aromatic poise and lively complexity on the palate which many in Spain would envy. It's dark black-red in colour, and the scents may remind you of forest resins and oily Mediterranean scrub leaves, with a quiet, beefy undertow of dense black fruits. As in Spain, the wine is vital and bright on the palate, and there are more of those resins and scrub plants lending a haunting, perfumed austerity to the bright fruits. Clearly a wonderful variety to use here for the warmer years to come.

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