Church Road, Grand Reserve Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand 2020

With two wines in this year's Best In Show selection, Hawkes's Bay has excelled -- and our judges, too, were particularly happy that the North Island winegrowers’ slow, painstaking work teasing Chardonnay levels ever higher are patently paying off. This outstanding wine has a bright gold colour with faint lime glints. Freshness and richness are beautifully paired in the aromas -- to an extent which is perhaps only possible south of the equator in New Zealand. That gives this wine a memorable classicism, Burgundy-lovers might note. In the mouth, it is concentrated and confident, once again striding down that line between the fresh and the rich to vivacious effect. No hurry to drink: a year or two's cellar softening will bring great benefits here.

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