Premium red Rioja - Decanter Panel Tasting - Part I

Even at £20 and above, no other wine region offers the same quality and diversity of style, age or blend as Rioja, says Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW.

Originally published on March 2017 issue of Decanter magazine. Click to subscribe>>

Despite being the most renowned Spanish wine, few people understand the complexity, quality and diversity in Rioja. The region owes its fame to the same reason that precludes it from being fully appreciated: the vast amount of easy-going, oaky, bland, cheap uniform wines sold as Rioja crianza. These wines are perfect for wine drinkers looking for a simple red. Some consumers whose palates are more mature will soon want to move up the quality ladder; sadly, however, most will not venture any further, thinking erroneously that Rioja has little else to offer. This is a pity, as premium Rioja is a classic fine wine category.

With 50% of wines Highly Recommended and above, and just two failing to hit at least the Recommended mark, this is undoubtedly the most successful Decanter panel tasting of the past decade.

The scores:

191 wines tasted

Exceptional – 0
Outstanding – 8
Highly Recommended – 88
Recommended – 93
Commended – 1
Fair – 1
Poor – 0
Faulty – 0

The judges:

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW; Sarah Jane Evans MW; Pierre Mansour

This week try all eight Outstanding premium red Riojas from one of the most successful Decanter panel tastings.

Click to see Premium red Rioja - Decanter Panel Tasting - Part II

Wines

Oxer Bastegieta Zenigaonaindia, Suzzane, Rioja, Spain 2013 Oxer Bastegieta Zenigaonaindia, Suzzane, Rioja, Spain 2013

Oxer Bastegieta Zenigaonaindia, Suzzane, Rioja, Spain 2013

95

Outstanding

Lovely aromatics! Aniseed, sweet spice and dark fruit trickle through. Plum and blackberry juice explodes in the mouth, this is clearly a very ripe and succulent style. Enjoyable Garnacha.

Ortubia, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2007 Ortubia, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2007

Ortubia, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2007

95

Outstanding

Mature and stylish, this fleshy Rioja is showing great potential for ageing, but is also perfectly ready to drink now. Its smooth, mellow finish lends itself to drinking on its own or with food.

Navarrsotillo, Magister Bibendi Graciano, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010 Navarrsotillo, Magister Bibendi Graciano, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010

Navarrsotillo, Magister Bibendi Graciano, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2010

95

Outstanding

With a vegetal character to the nose, on the palate it is lovely; fresh, tannic and serious, it is made for the long run. A very different style that is persistent and will not please everybody, but it is definitely worth praise.

La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2008 La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2008

La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza, Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2008

95

Outstanding

A rich, sweet and savoury Reserva style with all the red cherries and a strong Garnacha influence. It is somewhat old-fashioned, in a good way, with plentiful integrated oak and a fine rasp of tannin.

Campo Viejo, Dominio, Rioja, Spain 2011 Campo Viejo, Dominio, Rioja, Spain 2011

Campo Viejo, Dominio, Rioja, Spain 2011

95

Outstanding

Charming hints of leather and spice ooze from the concentrated palate, but it is well balanced with great presence. This just proves that is it a well-proportioned and beautifully structured wine.

Bodegas de La Marquesa, Valserrano Finca Monteviejo, Rioja, Spain 2012 Bodegas de La Marquesa, Valserrano Finca Monteviejo, Rioja, Spain 2012

Bodegas de La Marquesa, Valserrano Finca Monteviejo, Rioja, Spain 2012

95

Outstanding

The elegant, retrained aromas open up with impressive power in the mouth, giving an explosion of flavour on top of very finely grained tannins. A top quality Rioja with real charisma.

Páganos, La Nieta, Rioja, Spain 2014 Páganos, La Nieta, Rioja, Spain 2014

Páganos, La Nieta, Rioja, Spain 2014

96

Outstanding

A bouquet full of dark red fruits makes this a lovely, seductive expression of Tempranillo. Beautifully refined, this is an enticing Rioja from Alavesa. It does itself proud with its great finesse, long finish and memorable character.

Finca Nueva, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2004 Finca Nueva, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2004

Finca Nueva, Gran Reserva, Rioja, Spain 2004

96

Outstanding

The palate is full of smoky notes and secondary flavours of toasty oak. It is dense and immensely satisfying, yet still evolving so it clearly has a lot to give. There is no doubt that this will continue to inspire and improve.