[Andrew Jefford] The only European vineyard I know intimately is celebrating, tomorrow, the fortieth anniversary of its planting.
[Andrew Jefford] Aren’t lower yields, after all, a fundamental quality key to the best contemporary Bordeaux?
[Andrew Jefford] To me ‘vinous’ is a precious tasting term, and a distinctive quality of certain wines only. The term is of value not least because vinous wines seem to me to be eminently gastronomic and digestible.
[Andrew Jefford] Given the granite sands, the steep slopes, the shy plants, the low yields and the rich, perfumed, low-acid, stone-dense flavours, it’s not hard to see Albillo Real from the Gredos as a kind of Spanish echo of Viognier or Condrieu.
[Andrew Jefford] The Kurniawan trial marked the end of innocence in the wine world; the verdict marks the end of trust.
[Andrew Jefford] I feel some unease at such times – about assuming that there are no lines of connection whatsoever between a family annihilated in a bombed home and a blocked malolactic fermentation, or between a swiftly fatal disease with no cure and th
[Andrew Jefford] The amelioration of ‘light’ Bordeaux wines with much darker wines from other regions is the most celebrated historical example of institutional cross-regional blending.
[Andrew Jefford] Prior to a visit to the Diam production facility at Céret in Roussillon (one of two factories, the other being in Spain’s Extremadura), I polled my Facebook contacts on the topic. The results were bewilderingly diverse.
[Andrew Jefford] To de-stem or not to de-stem: is it every Pinot grower’s Hamlet moment?
[Andrew Jefford] Bourboulenc is usually part of the blend for white Châteauneuf du Pape, but rarely much more than 10 to 30 per cent; here in La Clape, by contrast, it’s the backbone of the blend.