[Andrew Jefford] Aren’t lower yields, after all, a fundamental quality key to the best contemporary Bordeaux?
[Andrew Jefford] To me ‘vinous’ is a precious tasting term, and a distinctive quality of certain wines only. The term is of value not least because vinous wines seem to me to be eminently gastronomic and digestible.
[Andrew Jefford] Given the granite sands, the steep slopes, the shy plants, the low yields and the rich, perfumed, low-acid, stone-dense flavours, it’s not hard to see Albillo Real from the Gredos as a kind of Spanish echo of Viognier or Condrieu.
[Andrew Jefford] The Kurniawan trial marked the end of innocence in the wine world; the verdict marks the end of trust.
[Andrew Jefford] I feel some unease at such times – about assuming that there are no lines of connection whatsoever between a family annihilated in a bombed home and a blocked malolactic fermentation, or between a swiftly fatal disease with no cure and th
[Andrew Jefford] The amelioration of ‘light’ Bordeaux wines with much darker wines from other regions is the most celebrated historical example of institutional cross-regional blending.
[Andrew Jefford] Prior to a visit to the Diam production facility at Céret in Roussillon (one of two factories, the other being in Spain’s Extremadura), I polled my Facebook contacts on the topic. The results were bewilderingly diverse.
[Andrew Jefford] To de-stem or not to de-stem: is it every Pinot grower’s Hamlet moment?
[Andrew Jefford] Bourboulenc is usually part of the blend for white Châteauneuf du Pape, but rarely much more than 10 to 30 per cent; here in La Clape, by contrast, it’s the backbone of the blend.
[Andrew Jefford] No wine producer is required to list any of the 250 or more potential additives which can find their way into wine, sulphur aside. This is palpably unfair, since food manufacturers are generally required to list additives, even if such l