Rioja, Spain


Rioja: best six bodegas to visit

☆ López de Heredia, Haro

One of Rioja’s great old names, a family business which manages a delightful fusion of old (winemaking as it used to be) and new (wines are sold from a space-age shop designed by Zaha Hadid).

☆ Roda, Haro

Next door to López de Heredia, this shiny modern investment – all glass walls and low-lit walkways – specialises in Tempranillo. Cellars are built into the hillside. Be sure to make room in your shopping bag for the outstanding olive oil.

☆ La Rioja Alta, Haro

The third must-see in Haro. Not as picturesque as López de Heredia, perhaps, but nevertheless a worthwhile pilgrimage to the home of one of the region’s outstanding Gran Reservas.

☆ Dinastía Vivanco, Briones

The wine museum is one of the best of its kind, while the circular restaurant is well worth a visit. After lunch, walk round the pretty village which also houses Bodega Miguel Merino.,

☆ Baigorri, Samaniego

All that appears above ground is the glass box imprinted boldly with the company name. Tucked away below is the winery. Not just a design conceit, Baigorri is a regular medal winner.

☆ Viña Real, Laguardia

The modern face of CVNE, one of Haro’s 19th-century wineries. The building is circular, vat-shaped, with a striking circular barrel cellar inside. It has great views over Rioja Alavesa, and well-organised tastings.

Translated by Sylvia Wu / 吴嘉溦

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