2013 has begun with the death of one of the great, although unsung, names of Bordeaux wine: Bernard Donèche. Not an owner of any great Médoc chateau, nor the zillionth generation of a famous Bordeaux lineage, but an academic who preferred to remain in the background in a laboratory or classroom. Outside of Bordeaux academia, he barely made a ripple,…
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Family businesses, it seems redundant to point out, are something of a prized asset in French wine. You have the Pol Roger family in Champagne, which heads back to the early 19th century, the Hugels in Alsace, who can trace their roots back to th
'When I first bought Château Haut-Brisson, back in 1997, I had no idea that 15 years later I would have quite so many Chinese neighbours.' Peter Kwok, speaking from his immaculate apartment in one of Hong Kong's most exclusive areas, smiles broad
[Jane Anson] We live in a largely visual world. Around 60% of our stimulus comes from sight, with 20% from hearing, 10% touch, 9% smell and just 1% from taste. This might seem to put wine tasters at a bit of a disadvantage, and is certainly why so we have
Two high profile departures from Bordeaux estates have been announced over the past month – Sylvie Cazes from Chateau Pichon Comtesse de Lalande and Jean-Guillaume Prats from Chateau Cos d’Estournel, both 2nd Growths from the 1855 classification.
After almost a decade of living in and writing about Bordeaux, there are certain things that are subtly but indisputably understood. And perhaps the most important is that the power of the market is sacrosanct. This is a place where the terroir,