Jefford on Monday
![The Gimblett Report](/assets/images/article/full/134174_gimblett-gravels-main.jpg?1453468515)
The Gimblett Report
Newly planted wine regions are more like young children than film stars; the vintage is the school report they bring home at the end of each term. The Gimblett Gravels Association circulates its own school report.
![“Wine is also a dream”](/assets/images/article/full/134127_sauvignon-blanc-austria-johanneshof-reinisch-vineyard.jpg?1453468450)
“Wine is also a dream”
In fact, that what matters most about most wine is its dream force.
![Meeting Sassicaia](/assets/images/article/full/sassicaia_mandrioli_vineyard.jpg?1453469359)
Meeting Sassicaia
Something like this isn’t meant to occur in Europe, where wine has been made for thousands of years...
![Change is coming](/assets/images/article/full/remote_andrew-jefford-and-serge-farigoule.jpg)
Change is coming
[Andrew Jefford] In a week’s time, the 2015 Climate Change Conference will begin in Paris: an event of significance not so much for our planet (which has undergone dramatic and sometimes rapid climate change on countless occasions in its past)
![A chat with Philippe](/assets/images/article/full/remote_la-mouline.jpg)
A chat with Philippe
It’s steep, La Mouline. The students and I looked down, through the reddening leaves of each individually staked vine in this little 1-ha vineyard, over each succeeding terrace wall, and finally over what appeared to be a leafy cliff edge...
![Grange meets La Niña](/assets/images/article/full/remote_peter-gago-at-shanghai-encounter-slide.jpg)
Grange meets La Niña
2011 clipped Australian winemakers’ wings. Australia was in the grip of the most significant La Niña event in its history; it was only South Australia’s warm areas which could compete for inclusion...
![She does what she wants](/assets/images/article/full/remote_virginia-petit-manseng-slide.jpg)
She does what she wants
In terms of grape varieties, what exactly would the capricious Virginia like to do? Nothing may be perfect – but Tannat, Nebbiolo and Petit Manseng are beginning to look more assured here
![Faithful to the season](/assets/images/article/full/remote_columnists-andrew-jefford-burgundy-montrachet-with-chevalier-above-andrew-jefford-slide.jpg)
Faithful to the season
The concept of vintage fidelity is an intriguing one. Is it an absolute or a relative ideal? All well and good in a great vintage, of course; we’re all in favour of maximum fidelity then. But what about a dismal vintage?
![Journey into forbidden territory](/assets/images/article/full/remote_columnists-andrew-jefford-20050406-howell-0008-final-web.jpg)
Journey into forbidden territory
I’ve always tried to taste as a surrogate drinker rather than a vinous policeman, but this episode suggested that I must try harder still...
![Subterranean terroir](/assets/images/article/full/remote_columnists-andrew-jefford-gours-st-marcel.jpg)
Subterranean terroir
France, as befits a largely limestone land, is stuffed with deep, dramatic and often beautifully illuminated caves.